{"id":14699,"date":"2019-07-06T01:02:09","date_gmt":"2019-07-05T23:02:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.unadonnaconlavaligia.com\/?p=14699"},"modified":"2020-06-08T14:50:16","modified_gmt":"2020-06-08T12:50:16","slug":"%ef%bb%bfportovenere-on-my-mind","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.unadonnaconlavaligia.com\/en\/destinations\/italy\/%ef%bb%bfportovenere-on-my-mind\/","title":{"rendered":"\ufeffPortovenere on my mind"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Portovenere .. since the first time I came here many years ago I fell in love with the Unesco heritage seaside village, located in the Gulf of Poets, on the eastern ligurian riviera.<\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The village of Portovenere<\/strong> (or Porto Venere) has a history of about eight centuries; founded by the Genoese, it owes its name to an ancient temple dedicated to Venus, where the church of San Pietro<\/strong> is currently located. Together with the Palmaria island<\/strong>, and the two rocks of the Tino<\/strong> and Tinetto<\/strong>, it forms the regional park of Porto Venere<\/strong><\/a> which geographically closes the Gulf of La Spezia, known as the “Gulf of Poets”<\/em>, which extends to the village of Tellaro<\/strong>, and through the villages of San Terenzo<\/strong>, Lerici<\/strong> and Fiascherino<\/strong> too.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Gulf of Poets
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The Gulf of La Spezia<\/strong> began to be called this way starting from the nineteenth century, when it became better known thanks to the English romantic poets Lord Byron<\/em><\/strong> and Percy Shelley<\/em><\/strong> who often went to these places. We know for sure that the couple of spouses of Percy and Mary Shelley lived in Lerici at Villa Maggi<\/strong>, and Lord Byron often came to visit them. It is also said that he swam across the 8 km stretch of sea that separates Portovenere from Lerici, to reach his friends at the Villa. In memory of this fact the Byron Cup<\/em> <\/a>is held every year, a swimming competition that takes place at the end of August and in which the participants cover the same sea stretch by swimming.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even the italian Literature Nobel Prize<\/strong> Eugenio Montale<\/strong> loved these places very much, and a century or so later than Byron, we could have seen him spend his summers in one of the Cinque Terre villages, Monterosso al Mare.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

My favorite places in Porto Venere.<\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Arriving at Porto Venere: Piazza Bastreri.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I like this place it because it is the point of arrival where you stop to take the first photo of the Palazzata,<\/strong> as soon as you get off the bus, or after having parked your car.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is here that one decides which round to do<\/strong>: whether to head first towards the little church of San Pietro<\/strong> and then go up towards the Doria Castle<\/strong> and the Church of San Lorenzo<\/strong>, passing in front of the small shops and restaurants. Or if instead explore the narrow streets of the village, to finally re-emerge into the church square.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the Piazza Bastrieri you can also find the Pro Loco<\/em>, a small tourist information office, a tobacconist where you can buy tickets for the bus, and a small beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Calata Doria.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thi is the so called Palazzata a mare, <\/strong>consisting of many colourful “tower-houses”<\/em>,<\/strong> characterized by the facades all painted in different pastel colors, which ends near the rocks in front of the Palmaria island, with the little church of San Pietro perched on the promontory.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the backside of The Palazzata, the ancient alleyways lead up to the village up to the central road, where there are small shops and restaurants. The real inhabited village, however, is located a little higher up, among the narrow streets that lead to the Parish Church of San Lorenzo and the Doria Castle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The church of San Pietro.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Down the hill on which stands the village, it is located the church of San Pietro, with its distinctive exterior decoration in black and white bands,<\/strong> from which you can enjoy incredible views of the surrounding sea and the coast.<\/strong> It is the symbol of Portovenere<\/strong>, and the colonnade overlooking the stunning turquoise sea is one of the most beautiful places to take a souvenir photo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Byron cave<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Byron cave.<\/em><\/strong>
The Arpaia cave<\/strong> set on the cliffs near the San Pietro church, was named after the poet Byron, because it is said that from here he dived to cross the 8 km sea stretch that separates Porto Venere from Lerici, to reach his friends Shelley who resided in Villa Maggi. Every year there is also a swimming trophy that bears this name.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"portovenere-madrenatura-statua\"<\/a>
Mother Nature statue<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Mother Nature<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is one of my favorite spots, here in Portovenere, the statue of the sculptor Lello Scorzelli donated to the municipality: a female figure sitting on the cliff<\/strong>, with her hands in her lap, watching towards the sea<\/strong>. I identify a lot in this female figure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Palmaria island.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Superb for a day at the beach, the small island is a former military settlement (the Navy’s bathing establishments are still open) and in addition to diving into its blue sea the island offers the possibility of taking beautiful walks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n