Portovenere .. since the first time I came here many years ago I fell in love with the Unesco heritage seaside village, located in the Gulf of Poets, on the eastern ligurian riviera.
The village of Portovenere (or Porto Venere) has a history of about eight centuries; founded by the Genoese, it owes its name to an ancient temple dedicated to Venus, where the church of San Pietro is currently located. Together with the Palmaria island, and the two rocks of the Tino and Tinetto, it forms the regional park of Porto Venere which geographically closes the Gulf of La Spezia, known as the “Gulf of Poets”, which extends to the village of Tellaro, and through the villages of San Terenzo, Lerici and Fiascherino too.
The Gulf of Poets
The Gulf of La Spezia began to be called this way starting from the nineteenth century, when it became better known thanks to the English romantic poets Lord Byron and Percy Shelley who often went to these places. We know for sure that the couple of spouses of Percy and Mary Shelley lived in Lerici at Villa Maggi, and Lord Byron often came to visit them. It is also said that he swam across the 8 km stretch of sea that separates Portovenere from Lerici, to reach his friends at the Villa. In memory of this fact the Byron Cup is held every year, a swimming competition that takes place at the end of August and in which the participants cover the same sea stretch by swimming.
Even the italian Literature Nobel Prize Eugenio Montale loved these places very much, and a century or so later than Byron, we could have seen him spend his summers in one of the Cinque Terre villages, Monterosso al Mare.
My favorite places in Porto Venere.
Arriving at Porto Venere: Piazza Bastreri.
I like this place it because it is the point of arrival where you stop to take the first photo of the Palazzata, as soon as you get off the bus, or after having parked your car.
It is here that one decides which round to do: whether to head first towards the little church of San Pietro and then go up towards the Doria Castle and the Church of San Lorenzo, passing in front of the small shops and restaurants. Or if instead explore the narrow streets of the village, to finally re-emerge into the church square.
On the Piazza Bastrieri you can also find the Pro Loco, a small tourist information office, a tobacconist where you can buy tickets for the bus, and a small beach.
The Calata Doria.
Thi is the so called Palazzata a mare, consisting of many colourful “tower-houses”, characterized by the facades all painted in different pastel colors, which ends near the rocks in front of the Palmaria island, with the little church of San Pietro perched on the promontory.
On the backside of The Palazzata, the ancient alleyways lead up to the village up to the central road, where there are small shops and restaurants. The real inhabited village, however, is located a little higher up, among the narrow streets that lead to the Parish Church of San Lorenzo and the Doria Castle.
The church of San Pietro.
Down the hill on which stands the village, it is located the church of San Pietro, with its distinctive exterior decoration in black and white bands, from which you can enjoy incredible views of the surrounding sea and the coast. It is the symbol of Portovenere, and the colonnade overlooking the stunning turquoise sea is one of the most beautiful places to take a souvenir photo.
The Byron cave.
The Arpaia cave set on the cliffs near the San Pietro church, was named after the poet Byron, because it is said that from here he dived to cross the 8 km sea stretch that separates Porto Venere from Lerici, to reach his friends Shelley who resided in Villa Maggi. Every year there is also a swimming trophy that bears this name.
Mother Nature
This is one of my favorite spots, here in Portovenere, the statue of the sculptor Lello Scorzelli donated to the municipality: a female figure sitting on the cliff, with her hands in her lap, watching towards the sea. I identify a lot in this female figure.
Palmaria island.
Superb for a day at the beach, the small island is a former military settlement (the Navy’s bathing establishments are still open) and in addition to diving into its blue sea the island offers the possibility of taking beautiful walks.
Portovenere viewed from Palmaria 
Portovenere viewed from Palmaria
Despite the crowds of tourists who visit every year, Porto Venere is still a unique place, sublime and romantic, “hanging” in the blue of the sea, an atmosphere of the past that still exists and resists. Visitors are attracted by the romance of the place, by the blue sea (even if in the town there are no real beaches, but those of the Palmaria island are beautiful and easily reachable in a few minutes by boat) and by the countless cultural events that animate the village especially in summer.
Don’t forget to take a boat tour too, around the three islands, Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto, the rocky spur on which the church of San Pietro stands from the sea is a unique sight, we did it with our sailboat.
So, what can I say…
Portovenere came into my head and does not leave anymore. I hope you can enjoy this wonderful italian jewel as well.
« Là fuoresce il tritone
dai flutti che lambiscono
“Porto Venere ” – a poetry of Eugenio Montale
le soglie d’un cristiano
tempio, ed ogni ora prossima
è antica. Ogni dubbiezza
si conduce per mano
come una fanciulletta amica.
Là non è chi si guardi
o stia di sé in ascolto.
Quivi sei alle origini
e decidere è stolto:
ripartirai più tardi per assumere un volto. »
How to get to Portovenere and where to park
A15 motorway (Cisa): take exit La Spezia and follow the signs direction Cinque Terre-Portovenere. Parking in Portovenere especially during summer season and weekends, is rather difficult. A large parking lot has been set up about 3 km away from centre village, with a shuttle bus connection service (for a fee). From mid-October to mid-March parking is free, but in summer the cost can vary from 3 to 1.5 euros per hour.
Bus: best way to go to Portovenere, without the hussle of finding a car park, is take the bus; from da La Spezia lines are number 11 and P.
Ferryboat: ferry to Portovenere departs from Passeggiata Morin pier, in La Spezia. During the peak season in July and August a secondary ferry service departs from the nearby villages of Cadimare, Fezzano and Le Grazie, direction Portovenere. This ferry runs 3 times a day (August) and stops in Palmaria island too.
Please note: there is no train station in Portovenere, the nearest train station is La Spezia.
Portovenere beaches
The most beautiful ones are on the Palmaria island, which is 3-4 minutes away by boat (take the boat in front of the Palazzata), but also along the Olivo seafront promenade there are some nice ones, some with bathing establishments and some are public beaches with free access.
Restaurants in Portovenere
When I visit Portovenere usually I eat at the Il Timone restaurant, located on the waterfront just opposite the ferry boarding. Here you can order typical Ligurian dishes, in addition to pizza and focaccia.
Another very good restaurant situated in the heart of the village, in the Calata Doria, is Elettra, with excellent seafood and local cuisine.
Summer events in Portovenere
Festivals and events take place throughout the summer and culminate with the 15th of August celebrations (italian so called “Ferragosto which is actually a religious feast dedicated to the Virgin Maria). The 17th of August takes place the feast ot the Madonna Bianca, patroness of Portovenere. On the night of this day, the entire village of Portovenere is illuminated with hundreds of torches and in the evening you can take part of the procession dedicated to Our Lady of San Lorenzo.
Visiting the Palmaria Island
The Cooperativa Barcaioli di Portovenere (boatmen cooperative) ensures constant connections with the small island, which are very frequent during summer time. The crossing to Punta Secco, with a nice pebbly beach and a wonderful sea, takes only a few minutes. You can go around the island by foot and reach another wide inlet and beach of Pozzale, on the opposite side of the island.
For further informations: Eventi Portovenere